Skin aging is the result of a purely internal biological phenomenon and factors external to the skin.  

As we age, and even more so after the menopause, the epidermis begins to dry out, fatty acid and sweat gland production diminishes, the hydrolipidic film thins, and intercellular communication, cell renewal and metabolic exchange between the epidermis and dermis are impaired. 

In the dermis, ageing results in an alteration of fibroblasts and a deterioration in collagen production, and this happens more rapidly when the skin is exposed to solar radiation or smoking. Existing collagen also breaks down more rapidly. As a result, the skin is progressively deprived of its supportive mattress, losing volume, density, elasticity, tone and suppleness, sagging and hollowing out, giving way to more and more wrinkles. While it's impossible to measure the decline in our body's collagen levels, these outward signs are a logical consequence. Collagen intake helps to plump skin, making it smooth and supple and better able to retain moisture. It also improves tissue elasticity and joint suppleness.  

To avoid accelerating the age-related decline in collagen levels, we recommend avoiding: 

Dermatologists and aesthetic physicians suggest that those who refuse to accept these signs of ageing “erase” these fine lines and wrinkles by filling the area with biodegradable floating bodies such as collagen or hyaluronic acid. To date, their use does not appear to pose any problems. Collagen of animal origin must be tested beforehand to avoid any allergies. Filling with hyaluronic acid, however, delivers a greater effect, but is tension-dependent, leading to increasingly frequent filling.

Collagen is present in certain foods and dietary supplements. Some cosmetic active ingredients in skincare products boost collagen production in our skin.  

Collagen is a large molecule made up of a collection of small molecules - amino acids. As a result, the body is unable to assimilate it in its entirety. To do so, it has to break it down, i.e. “break” the assembly so that these small molecules can cross the intestinal barrier. Once these amino acids have been ingested by the body, they consolidate to create a protein which may or may not be collagen. If the new protein created is collagen, which is not necessarily the case, the body will then allocate it to the part of the body that is deficient. So it's not necessarily intended for use by the skin. Our body may, for example, allocate it to bones or tendons if these are deficient.  

The promises made about the skin when taking dietary supplements must be qualified. In fact, just because you swallow a capsule of a collagen-based dietary supplement for cosmetic purposes doesn't mean it will benefit your skin. That's a false shortcut, because it's your body that will break it down and determine how to use its components according to its needs.  

To facilitate its digestion and absorption by the body, there is a hydrolyzed form of collagen, where the large collagen molecule is already broken down into smaller molecules called collagen peptides. If you'd like to try a collagen cure, opt for the more effective hydrolyzed form.

The first source is obviously our diet. As collagen is a protein composed mainly of amino acids, you'll find it in meat (preferably a fibrous piece), eggs, fish, dairy products, bone marrow, bone broth or fish stock. But it's important to remember that the more vitamin A or C, or minerals such as zinc, copper or iron, you consume, the better absorbed and bioavailable it will be for your body and skin. Some plants, such as bamboo and nettle, also help collagen synthesis. Here are a few examples of foods containing these vitamins and minerals:  

Exfoliating or keratolytic active ingredients, whose function is to stimulate cell renewal, will stimulate cell synthesis. Retinol and vitamin C also boost collagen production in the skin. However, their frequent use sensitizes and irritates the skin. This is why active ingredients such as bakuchiol or alaria esculenta - both active ingredients in our rich cream "Perle Sacrée" - or Centella Asiatica or peptides, messengers signalling the need for collagen production, offer an effective, non-irritating alternative. Highly concentrated in oligopeptides, chlorella is a key active ingredient in our eye contour cream "Fraîcheur de l'Aube", boosting the synthesis of collagen fibers around the capillaries, thus masking dark circles.

Food supplements containing collagen come in a variety of more or less fun or tasty forms, such as gummies, sweets, drinks, dilutable powders and capsules.  

This collagen can be of bovine, porcine or marine origin. Bovine or porcine collagen is extracted from skin, bones and tendons, and will be poorly tolerated by people allergic to animal proteins. Marine collagen is extracted from the skin, bones and scales of fish or shrimp shells. Consumption of marine collagen may expose you to the heavy metals concentrated in fish scales, and is not recommended for people allergic to seafood. 

Although very much in vogue today and increasingly widespread, it's hard to find studies confirming with certainty the efficacy of collagen-based dietary supplements. Some studies show that collagen peptides are effective on skin hydration levels and elasticity. However, it is important to take a step back from these studies, some of which are in fact financed by players in the dietary supplements industry, and used as sales arguments. Especially since, as explained above, even if the label on a collagen dietary supplement promises to act on an area, it is not possible to guarantee that this is the case. It's up to our bodies to use collagen where they feel it's needed. So, a priori, there's no miracle solution for the moment. So, for serious joint or skin problems, it's best to opt for tried-and-tested treatments that a doctor can recommend.

It should be noted that the collagen craze is not without consequences for global deforestation. A report by the NGO Global Witness, published on Tuesday October 8, reveals the shrinking of the Gran Chaco forest in Paraguay - the 2nd largest forest in South America after the Amazon - due to cattle rearing, particularly for collagen production. This also has consequences for the forest's indigenous populations. Our advice: opt for skincare products based on active ingredients that boost collagen production, or select collagen-based food supplements that comply with the Europe Deforestation Law. This law is due to come into force in 2025, and prohibits the marketing in or export from Europe of products resulting from deforestation or forest degradation, which can deprive local populations of their land.