What are the new challenges and trends in cosmetics?

More and more of you are asking us about our treatments to understand their formula, their content, their manufacture and the sourcing of their raw materials. We appreciate your curiosity and your concern for the quality requirement. We thank you for these questions because it is always very pleasant for us to have these opportunities for discussion to explain the merits of our care and their stories and thus allow you to choose your care with full knowledge of the facts.

Your questions made us want to interview Audrey Roulin, Beauty Director at "Nelly Rodi", a business and creative intelligence consulting agency. We had the pleasure of meeting her. Hereafter, she deciphers behavior and sheds very interesting light on trends, new consumption standards and new uses in the beauty sector.

N: We are seeing a real awareness of the content of cosmetics and their ecological impact with consumers who are more and more demanding, how would you describe more precisely the expectations of these consumers and their needs?

A: Consumers need to understand, know and be informed more than ever, because there has been a massive awareness that has arisen from this distrust of cosmetic products. This mistrust stems from all the health, environmental and ecological crises that we have been able to go through over the past 20 years. It started with food and crept into the cosmetic product from our plate to our bathroom. Today, because of this mistrust, they need to be educated and informed. It is a societal crisis in general.

N: What are the expectations of these consumers more precisely?

A: Consumers want to know, among other things, the potential ingredients that could harm their health, and be able to decipher an INCI list in order to identify them. Despite European regulations, one of the most drastic in existence, ingredients have nevertheless been brought to light that could have, in the long term, harmful effects on our health and / or our environment. 

N: And what are these ingredients? 

A: We can identify ingredients that are indeed harmful and toxic to health, but also ingredients that sometimes cosmetic groups have excessively demonized through ultra-confusing and false marketing speeches! For example, among the different types of silicones, there are volatile silicones, which are not necessarily harmful to the consumer or the environment, and which certain types of hair and certain effects of makeup potentially need. Consumers are now looking to be better informed so that they can disentangle the true from the false.

I think that today, developing a clean formula is a prerequisite. L’ODAÏTÈS responds to this great consumer expectation and I think this is part of the brand's history. So to better meet consumer expectations, it is essential to communicate very transparently on the formulation philosophy among other things. We could also mention the manufacturing processes, the working conditions of employees on industrial chains, for example. All of this can be an integral part of this transparency, which is a due, a duty towards consumers in search of much more virtuous beauty consumption than before. It's up to brands to educate consumers, to reach out to them, to reach out to them because they don't have all the information. It’s all about balance, fairness, sincerity and bias too.

N: How do you think the market is organizing to meet these expectations?

A: Brands are developing more content than before through their communication. They also pass their philosophy on through people, especially influencers, who are much closer to consumers in terms of product expectations. Some brands are anticipating by opening reformulation projects and no longer wait for the new amendments to fall into the regulations. For example, there were already brands that had removed ingredients from their formulas before the amendment fell to avoid being "black listed".

Consumers are also unaware of all these industrial sites and that too, must be explained. If brands were to communicate about their industrialization and formulation process, perhaps consumers would be able to expect more and be more indulgent with respect to the responsiveness of brands. Again, this is information, information, information. It is also a fair balance between what the brand communicates to its consumers but also what it will have to impose and its bias. And ultimately it's all about honesty.

N: So according to you, with the proliferation of all these labels, how does the consumer manage to get an idea before buying a cosmetic?

A: I think he needs to find out. Part of the industry is clearly in a move today to only issue relatively "clean" formulas. Yes, there are "trends" about consumers who want to consume less and better, but there is a whole other part, full of types of consumers who are not interested in it. Beauty remains a consumption of pleasure of the moment; consumers buy products from brands that resemble them, not in terms of aesthetic embodiment but in terms of philosophy. But, there are consumers who are looking for other commitments that are more inclusive or social. It's all about personal priorities.

N: How do you respond to the consumer who wants to know if the product they are buying is "clean"?

A: Some brands are positioning themselves very clearly on this subject. Everything is said and communicated. There are also applications, like Clean Beauty, which inform and educate a lot. Certain retailers, like Oh My Cream, also guarantee a referencing and a sharp selection of “cleaner” brands. Today, consumers can access a lot of information online, the trick is to know how to sort it.

N: Are there types of outlets that inspire more confidence?

A: In beauty, there are a multitude of distribution channels. The subject is the question of fluidity: is it easy, available, and informative? The distribution channel is a reflection of the consumer philosophy; a woman who goes to the pharmacy will seek security, a woman who goes to Sephora will perhaps be more in a more embodied consumption, she will want to experience something other than what could be experienced in a pharmacy.

A woman who consumes online is clearly the "fast" side, instantaneous, immediate. There is a lot of information today on "direct-to-consumer": there is no middleman, so we buy directly from the brand. The circuits are relatively disparate and fragmented. The physical circuit is still very important. The online sale of a cosmetic product can always have limits compared to physical purchase.

N: How do you think L’ODAÏTÈS fits in with this development?

A: I think that L’ODAÏTÈS speaks to its consumers who are obviously looking for a clean formula, an effective formula but also very emotional, which is not the case for all the brands that are on this positioning. For me, L’ODAÏTÈS is a "love brand". A love brand is a loving, benevolent brand, which obviously carries naturalness in their formula, in their way of communicating. It responds to the trend of a more "slow" beauty, where we take the time to measure the effectiveness of a product.

N: In your opinion, should L’ODAÏTÈS emphasize its communication a little more on this aspect?

A: We are in the first part of L’ODAÏTÈS’s life, it’s a first major brand chapter. When clean formulas are the prerequisite and the entire cosmetics industry has set in motion on it, other threads will have to be drawn! This is why emotionality and efficiency are very important.

Consumers find it difficult to assess the effectiveness of a product and its naturalness, these are things that, in their mindset, do not necessarily meet. The brands that today take up this challenge somewhat in the minds of consumers are potentially brands that charge relatively high prices. You get the impression that the more money you put into your product, the more effective it is on the green part. But these are thoughts that will catch on. I think that at some point, L’ODAÏTÈS will have to speed up its communication on the efficiency aspect once this naturalness and this sensoriality have really been felt in the minds of consumers. 

N: Okay, and finally, what is your favorite product and why? 

A: It's the light mask. It's funny because I didn't necessarily consume it because it was an anti-aging treatment, I first tested it as a sample and then bought it. First of all, I love the smell and for me the cosmetic product is about pleasure, about emotion. I was trained, among other things, at ISIPCA, so I am convinced that the emotional is very important! In addition, I went to perfume school so I am convinced that the emotional is very important! I like the balm side, its a bit thick texture, which you can work on.

When we get older, we have more important needs in terms of hydration, nutrition and this is the case with me... You told me I could leave it on all day. Since I'm not someone who does a lot of makeup on me, it looks good on me. I find that there is a real result of skin that is supple and luminous, I love it! In fact, that's what you miss out on today when you're a city dweller.

N: Thank you Audrey for sharing your vision with us. We are totally in tune with the notion of anti-aging which, for us, generally encompasses the radiance, light, joy and serenity that a face expresses and exudes. This is the reason why we opted at L’ODAÏTÈS for the new expression well-aging. Indeed, regardless of age, the important thing is to wear it "well"! that is to say that the main thing is that our treatments allow you to dress your face in light and to make their use a moment of pleasure and sensoriality!