Which acids to adopt for beautiful skin?

Hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid or salicylic acid, etc.… so many active molecules with intimidating names! But these acids are allies of our skin that come to its aid to hydrate, smooth, brighten or regenerate it. Some are even essential for the formulation of our cosmetics or for the preservation of our food. They are usually present in cosmetics in low dosage and you will be able to spot them in the listing INCI by their English name, for example hyaluronic acid for hyaluronic acid. So what are these molecules for? where do they come from? and how to recognize them? We will enlighten you on the most commonly used in cosmetics by classifying them in alphabetical order.

Ascorbic acid: the expert in radiance

This is the famous vitamin C ! You know it and you have probably used it before to boost your body's energy. It is very famous for its powerful antioxidant properties, with the action of delaying the premature aging of the skin, but less well known for its other properties which are just as valuable for our skin. Indeed, the ascorbic acid has the power on the one hand to boost the synthesis of collagen for firmer skin, and on the other hand to work against pigmentation, by inhibiting tyrosinase - the enzyme that produces melanin - for a clearer and more even complexion.
This acid is very unstable, so it is often its water-soluble or fat-soluble derivatives which are used in cosmetics at doses varying from 1 to 5% for its depigmenting and regenerating activity and from 0.1% and 3% for its antioxidant activity. It is for this activity that we use it in the majority of our care.
You can also benefit your skin by doing cures from time to time of one to two months. It also exists in natural form, often extracted from acerola (West Indian cherry).

Citric acid: the guardian angel for the acid-base balance of your skin flora

It is the acid extracted from citrus fruits or produced by biotechnology which is used in cosmetic preparations mainly as an adjuster of pH. Indeed, it is essential to ensure that the cosmetic care has a pH, that is to say an acid-base balance, close to that of the skin - approximately 5.5 - in order to preserve the health of its hydrolipidic film. and the defenses of its microbiota. It is generally present in cosmetic care around 0.05%.

It is also used in food preparations for its role of preservative or flavor enhancer. We use it in some of our treatments to adjust the pH if needed.

Hyaluronic acid: the super-active ultra-hydrating

Naturally produced and present in the skin, this molecule is a real sponge capable of absorbing 1000 times its weight in water. Its production by the body ceases with the growth of our body; This is to say the importance of taking over by using moisturizers from the age of 25! That said, in addition to its moisturizing and plumping power, the hyaluronic acid also has a regenerative action by intervening in the process of cell proliferation and tissue adhesion.
It exists in 3 sizes - low, medium and high molecular weight - and the smaller it is, the more it will be able to penetrate and act in depth for skin that is not only hydrated and smooth but above all redensified and regenerated. We use low and medium molecular weight in our care. Formerly extracted from rooster ridges, today it comes from biotechnology and more precisely from bacterial fermentation as far as we are concerned. The hyaluronic acid is used in cosmetics in the form of its sodium salt designated in an INCI list by sodium hyaluronate and generally dosed between 0.01% –0.2%. Its size and origin does not change its name INCI. You will find it in the face cream and around the eyes.

Glycolic acid: the most powerful exfoliating agent

It is the most acid exfoliating of all fruit acids thanks to the small size of its molecule which allows it to penetrate more deeply than the others. As a result, it is widely used in peels for its keratolytic action at a concentration above 8% which will depend on the type of skin (thin / thick, dry / oily, sensitive / normal) and which can reach 20% for intense peels under dermatological control. Its keratolytic action gives it a depigmenting power which requires use only at night because it is photosensitizing. It is extracted from sugar cane or beetroot.

It is effective at a very acidic pH but will therefore be irritating to the skin! It must therefore be combined with moisturizing and soothing active ingredients if used and avoid regular use of care products based on this acid because over time your skin will become more and more irritable. This is why we do not use this acid in our care.

Essential fatty acids: the best for skin regeneration

You already know these Omega 3 and 6! These fatty acids are described as essential because, although essential for cellular metabolism, they are hardly synthesized by the body. It is therefore necessary to provide these fats through food or the application of cosmetic treatments. They make it possible to densify the skin, to structure the hydrolipidic barrier and to keep the skin hydrated, clear, supple and plumped.
That's not a ingredient in itself but a family of fatty acids, formerly called vitamin F, and found in certain oils, oily fish and nuts. Find these essential fatty acids in our face cream, our redensifying serum, our eye area, our light mask, our gentle exfoliant and our body cream.

Lactic acid: the ally of fragile skin

This acid is synthesized naturally by certain bacteria in our skin flora. Thanks to its reducing and regulating action of pH, it eliminates bad bacteria while keeping the good ones. It is therefore a soothing and structuring agent of hydrolipidic film. It has a moisturizing action and a very light exfoliating power which will be well suited to sensitive and fragile skin. Its content in cosmetics varies between 4% and 10% depending on the desired effect.
It is also often used in the food industry as an antioxidant, acidifier or flavor enhancer. It calms the pain of mouth ulcers. It is now obtained by biotechnology from sugar cane. You will be able to benefit from it by consuming fermented dairy products but especially not at 0% fat!

Retinoic acid: the star for delaying aging

This asset, derived from vitamin A, has several strings to its bow and its effectiveness has been proven. It exfoliates, boosts cell renewal, acts against pigment spots and activates the synthesis of collagen and elastin. Since this is a medicinal active ingredient, you will only find in cosmetic care its precursors, such as retinol and retinaldehyde, which are less effective but better tolerated by the skin. However, these are photosensitive and irritating, so use sparingly. Our date sap is very high in beta-carotene, a precursor to vitamin A, so we don't use this acid.

Salicylic acid: an active ingredient to smooth your skin

This acid, obtained from the bark of white willow, is used for its exfoliating and purifying power, which gives a more even complexion and a smoother skin texture. As a result, it also helps boost the absorption of all other treatments. This acid is lipophilic and soothing, so it is particularly recommended for combination to oily skin. It also plays a role of preservative in cosmetics with a maximum authorized concentration of 0.5%. Also be careful not to overdo it to avoid weakening the hydrolipidic film.

Our date stone powders and of olive leaves is sufficient for a good exfoliating action, so we do not use this acid.

Here is the explanation of the main acids most commonly used in cosmetic formulation. Our goal is to help you above all to better decipher the composition of your treatments in order to better understand their composition and thus to be able to better choose the one that suits you best. Do not hesitate to write to us if you have any questions or to book a time slot on our site for a free consultation to benefit from advice for a care ritual adapted to your skin and its problems.

 Did this deciphering make you want to discover our natural and sensory treatments composed of acids or natural alternatives? Find them below!

Ange Sensationnel
Elixir Bonheur
Fraîcheur de l'Aube Sève Divine
Pépite de la Palmeraie Fine Fleur