
Which acids to adopt for a beautiful skin?
Hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid or even salicylic acid, etc.… so many active molecules with an intimidating name! But these acids are allies of our skin that come to its aid to hydrate, smooth, brighten or regenerate it. Some are even essential for the formulation of our cosmetics or for the preservation of our food. They are usually present in low dosage cosmetics and you will be able to spot them in the list INCI by their English name, for example hyaluronic acid for hyaluronic acid. So what are these molecules for? where do they come from? and how to recognize them? We enlighten you on the most commonly used in cosmetics by classifying them in alphabetical order.

NABILA
March 2021
1. ASCORBIC ACID: THE RADIANCE EXPERT
It is the famous vitamin C ! You know it and you have probably already consumed it to boost the energy of your body. It is well known for its powerful antioxidant properties, with the action of delaying premature aging of the skin, but less well known for its other equally valuable properties for our skin. Indeed, theascorbic acid has the power on the one hand to boost the synthesis of collagen for firmer skin, and on the other hand to act against pigmentation, by inhibiting tyrosinase - an enzyme that produces melanin - for a clearer and more even complexion.
This acid is very unstable, so it is often its water-soluble or fat-soluble derivatives that are used in cosmetics at doses varying from 1 to 5% for its depigmenting and regenerating activity and from 0.1% and 3% for its antioxidant activity. It is for this activity that we use it in the majority of our treatments.
You can also make your skin benefit from it by doing one to two month cures from time to time. It also exists in a natural form often extracted from acerola (Antilles cherry).
2. CITRIC ACID: THE GUARDIAN ANGEL OF THE ACID-BASE BALANCE OF YOUR SKIN FLORA
It is the acid extracted from citrus fruits or produced by biotechnology which is used in cosmetic preparations mainly as pH adjuster. Indeed, it is essential to ensure that the cosmetic treatment has a pH, i.e. an acid-base balance, close to that of the skin – around 5.5 – in order to preserve the health of its hydrolipidic film. and the defenses of its microbiota. It is generally present in cosmetic treatments around 0.05%.
It is also used in food preparations for its role as a preservative or flavor enhancer. We use it in some of our treatments to adjust the pH if necessary.
3. HYALURONIC ACID: THE ULTRA-HYDRATING SUPER ACTIVE
Naturally produced and present in the skin, this molecule is a real sponge capable of absorbing 1000 times its weight in water. Its production by the body ceases with the growth of our body; that is to say the importance of taking over by using moisturizers from the age of 25! That said, in addition to its moisturizing and plumping power, thehyaluronic acid also has a regenerative action by intervening in the process of cell proliferation and tissue adhesion.
It comes in 3 sizes - low, medium and high molecular weight - and the smaller it is, the more it will be able to penetrate and act in depth for skin that is not only hydrated and smooth but above all redensified and regenerated. We use low and medium molecular weight in our treatments. Formerly extracted from rooster combs, it now comes from biotechnology and more precisely from bacterial fermentation as far as we are concerned. Hyaluronic acid is used in cosmetics in the form of its sodium salt designated in an INCI list by sodium hyaluronate and generally dosed between 0.01%–0.2%. Its size and origin do not change its INCI denomination. You will find it in the face cream and in the eye contour.
4. GLYCOLIC ACID: THE MOST POWERFUL EXFOLIATING AGENT
It is the most exfoliating of all fruit acids thanks to its small molecule size which allows it to penetrate deeper than others. As a result, it is widely used in peels for its keratolytic action at a concentration above 8% which will depend on the type of skin (thin/thick, dry/oily, sensitive/normal) and which can reach 20%. for intense peels under dermatological control. Its keratolytic action gives it a depigmenting power which requires use only at night because it is photosensitizing. It is extracted from sugar cane or beets.
It is effective at a very acidic pH but will be irritating to the skin! It must therefore be combined with moisturizing and soothing active ingredients when used and avoid regular use of treatments based on this acid because in the long run your skin will become more and more irritable. This is why we do not use this acid in our treatments.
5. ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS: THE BEST FOR SKIN REGENERATION
You already know these Omega 3 and 6! These fatty acids are qualified as essential because although they are essential for cellular metabolism, they are hardly synthesized by the body. It is therefore necessary to provide these fats via food or the application of cosmetic treatments. They make it possible to densify the skin, to structure the hydrolipidic barrier and to keep skin hydrated, clean, supple and plumped.
It is not an ingredient in itself but a family of fatty acids, formerly called vitamin F, and present in certain oils, fatty fish and nuts. Find these essential fatty acids in our face cream, our redensifying serum, our eye contour, our light mask, our gentle exfoliant and our body cream.
6. LACTIC ACID: THE ALLY OF FRAGILE SKIN
This acid is synthesized naturally by certain bacteria in our skin flora. Thanks to its pH-reducing and regulating action, it eliminates bad bacteria while preserving the good ones. It is therefore a soothing and structuring agent of the hydrolipidic film. It has a moisturizing action and a very slight exfoliating power which will be well suited to sensitive and fragile skin. Its content in cosmetics varies between 4% and 10% depending on the desired effect.
It is also often used in the food industry as an antioxidant, acidifier or flavor enhancer. It calms the pain of mouth ulcers. It is now obtained by biotechnology from sugar cane. You can enjoy it by consuming fermented dairy products but especially not at 0% fat!
7. RETINOIC ACID: THE STAR FOR DELAYING AGING
This asset, derived from vitamin A, has several strings to its bow and its effectiveness has been proven. It exfoliates, boosts cell renewal, acts against pigment spots and activates the synthesis of collagen and elastin. As it is a medicinal active ingredient, you will only find its precursors in cosmetic care, such as retinol and retinaldehyde, which are less effective but better tolerated by the skin. However, these are photosensitive and irritating, so use sparingly. OUR date sap is very rich in beta-carotene, a precursor of vitamin A, so we do not use this acid.
8. SALICYLIC ACID: AN ACTIVE INGREDIENT TO SMOOTH YOUR SKIN
This acid, derived from white willow bark, is used for its exfoliating and purifying power, which gives a more even complexion and smoother skin texture. As a result, it also boosts the absorption of all other treatments. This acid is lipophilic and soothing, so it is particularly recommended for combination to oily skin. It also acts as a preservative in cosmetics with a maximum authorized concentration of 0.5%. Also be careful not to abuse it too much to avoid weakening the hydrolipidic film.
Us date stone powder and of olive leavesr are enough to obtain a good exfoliating action, so we do not use this acid.
Here is the explanation of the main acids most commonly used in cosmetic formulation. Our objective is to help you above all to better decipher the composition of your treatments in order to better understand their composition and thus be able to better choose the one that suits you best. Do not hesitate to write to us if you have any questions or to reserve a time slot on our site for a free consultation to benefit from advice for a care ritual adapted to your skin and its problems.